Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city is little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has consistently shaped its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – little-known treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but note that their younger generation are reluctant to master the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to explore these narratives and experience the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.